CITY GUIDES / CHENGDU
Chengdu 成都
Pandas in the morning, teahouses in the afternoon, hot pot at night.
- Best time
- Mar–Jun, Sep–Nov
- How long
- 3–4 days
- Daily budget
- ¥200–400 + hotel
- Airports
- TFU · CTU
Overview
Chengdu is Sichuan's easy-going capital, and the city most people come to for two things: giant pandas and Sichuan food. The pace is slower than Beijing or Shanghai. People really do spend afternoons in bamboo chairs drinking tea and playing mahjong, and you should try it at least once.
The city itself has a few half-day sights, and it is a good base for day trips: the Leshan Giant Buddha, the bronze masks of Sanxingdui, and further out, Jiuzhaigou. Plan the panda base for your first clear morning, since the pandas are most active early.
See, eat and plan
Panda Base 熊猫基地
The giant panda research base north of the city. Arrive at opening, around 7:30, when the pandas eat and play. Real-name tickets online, roughly ¥55.
People's Park 人民公园
Order a cup at the Heming teahouse, watch the dancing and the weekend marriage market, and try an ear-cleaning if you dare.
Sichuan hot pot
Beef tallow broth full of chilli and Sichuan pepper. Order a split pot with a mild side, and ask for wei la (微辣, mildly spicy).
Wenshu Monastery 文殊院
An active Buddhist monastery with gardens, a busy teahouse and a vegetarian restaurant. Entry is free.
Wuhou Shrine and Jinli 武侯祠 · 锦里
A temple to the heroes of the Three Kingdoms (about ¥50), next to Jinli, a lantern-lit snack street best in the evening.
Mapo tofu
Soft tofu in a numbing, spicy sauce with minced beef. Born in Chengdu and better here than anywhere.
Sanxingdui Museum 三星堆博物馆
Strange bronze masks and trees from a 3,000-year-old culture, about an hour north. Book tickets ahead; around ¥70.
Leshan Giant Buddha 乐山大佛
A 71 m Buddha carved into a riverside cliff, about an hour by high-speed train. Go early to beat the stair queue, or see it from a boat. About ¥80.
Dan dan noodles
Small bowls of noodles with chilli oil, pork and preserved vegetables. Stir well before eating.
Chuanchuan
Hot pot on skewers. Pick from the fridge, cook in the shared pot, and pay by the number of sticks.
Zhong dumplings
Pork dumplings in a sweet, garlicky chilli oil. A classic Chengdu snack.
Long wontons
Silky wontons in clear or red-oil broth. A gentle breakfast after a hot pot night.
Getting there and around
Chengdu has two airports. Tianfu (TFU), where most international flights land, is about 50 km southeast; Metro Line 18 runs to the city in about 40 minutes. Shuangliu (CTU) is closer to the centre and linked by Metro Line 10.
High-speed trains use Chengdu East, Chengdu South and Chengdu West stations, so check which one is on your ticket. Chongqing is about 1–1.5 hours away, Xi'an 3–4 hours. Leshan trains leave from Chengdu East or South.
The metro covers the centre, the panda base area and both airports. Didi is cheap for the panda base at opening time, when the metro is just starting.
For Jiuzhaigou, fly to Jiuzhai Huanglong airport or take the high-speed train to Huanglong Jiuzhai station, then a bus. Allow at least two nights; it does not work as a day trip.
Where to stay
Stay around Chunxi Road and Taikoo Li for shopping, food and metro Lines 2 and 3, or near Wenshu Monastery and Kuanzhai Alley for a quieter, older feel. Both are central enough for an early start at the panda base.
Good to know
- Spice level: most dishes can be made milder. Learn bu la (不辣, not spicy) and wei la (微辣, mildly spicy), and keep yoghurt or soy milk on the table at hot pot.
- Weather: grey skies and humidity are normal. Summer is hot and wet, winter damp and chilly but rarely below freezing.
- Book ahead for the panda base, Sanxingdui and Jiuzhaigou on weekends and holidays, using the passport you will carry.
- Kuanzhai Alley is pretty but crowded and pricey. One stroll is enough.
- Paying: set up Alipay and WeChat Pay before you fly and keep some cash. See paying in China.
- Next stops: Chongqing is an hour away by train; Xi'an and Guilin are both easy onward routes.
Prices, hours and visa rules change. Confirm key bookings before you go.