CITY GUIDES / XI'AN
Xi'an 西安
The old capital at the start of the Silk Road, with the Terracotta Army just outside town.
- Best time
- Apr–May, Sep–Oct
- How long
- 2–3 days
- Daily budget
- ¥200–400 + hotel
- Getting in
- XIY · Xi'an North station
Overview
Xi'an was China's capital for more than a thousand years, and it is the natural second stop after Beijing. The Terracotta Army takes one full morning or afternoon outside the city. The rest of the trip happens inside and around the Ming city wall, which still rings the centre and is easy to cycle on top.
It is also one of the best food cities in the north. Wheat, lamb, chilli oil and vinegar replace the rice of the south, and the evening snack streets are a meal in themselves. Two full days cover the highlights; a third lets you slow down or add the museum you skipped.
See, eat and plan
Terracotta Army 兵马俑
Thousands of clay soldiers about 40 km east of the city. Start in Pit 1, the big hall. Real-name tickets, around ¥120, booked with your passport.
City Wall 西安城墙
A complete 14 km Ming wall. Climb at the South Gate and rent a bike on top for the full loop. About ¥54; beautiful at dusk.
Roujiamo
Chopped braised pork (or beef in the Muslim Quarter) in a crisp flatbread. Xi'an's street sandwich, ¥10–20.
Shaanxi History Museum 陕西历史博物馆
Tang gold, bronzes and murals, and one of China's best museums. Main halls are free, but slots must be reserved and go fast. Closed Mondays.
Big Wild Goose Pagoda 大雁塔
A Tang-dynasty pagoda in the Da Ci'en Temple. The square to its north has a music fountain in the evening.
Yangrou paomo
Lamb soup poured over flatbread you tear into small pieces yourself. Slow, filling and very local.
Muslim Quarter 回民街
Lanes of Hui Muslim food stalls behind the Drum Tower. Busy and touristy, but the snacks are real. Step into the side lanes for calmer places.
Bell and Drum Towers 钟鼓楼
The two towers mark the centre of the walled city. Go inside for the drum performance, or just see them lit up at night.
Biangbiang noodles
Belt-wide hand-pulled noodles under hot chilli oil. The character for 'biang' is famously complicated.
Liangpi
Cold, slippery wheat or rice noodles with vinegar, chilli and garlic. A summer favourite for a few yuan.
Soup dumplings
Thin-skinned dumplings full of hot broth, a Muslim Quarter staple. Let them cool before biting.
Persimmon cakes
Fried persimmon dough filled with sweet osmanthus paste. Eat them hot from the pan.
Getting there and around
Xi'an Xianyang airport (XIY) is about 40 km northwest of the centre. Metro Line 14 links it to Xi'an North railway station, where you change to Line 2 for the old city. A taxi takes around an hour.
High-speed trains arrive at Xi'an North. Beijing is roughly 4.5–6 hours away, Chengdu around 3–4 hours, Luoyang about 1.5 hours. Older trains use the central Xi'an station, just outside the north wall.
Inside the wall, most sights are walkable or a short metro ride apart. For the Terracotta Army, take the metro towards Huaqingchi and a short bus or taxi from there, or the tourist bus from the east square of Xi'an railway station. Ignore people at the station selling "official" tours or tickets.
Where to stay
Stay inside the city wall, near the Bell Tower or the South Gate (Yongningmen). You can walk to the Muslim Quarter at night and reach the metro for everything else. The area around the Big Wild Goose Pagoda is a quieter, more modern alternative a few stops south.
Good to know
- Reserve the museum early. Shaanxi History Museum slots are released a few days ahead and disappear quickly, especially at weekends.
- Mondays: the history museum is closed. The Terracotta Army opens every day.
- Weather: summers are hot and dry, winters cold with occasional smog. Spring and autumn are best for cycling the wall.
- Bring your passport for the Terracotta Army, museum tickets and trains.
- Paying: set up Alipay and WeChat Pay before you fly and keep some cash. See paying in China.
- Next stops: Luoyang and the Longmen Grottoes are an easy train ride east; Chengdu is the usual next stop south.
Prices, hours and visa rules change. Confirm key bookings before you go.